Taille d’épargne, sometimes referred to as black enamel tracery, translates from the French literally as “saving cut.” It is a variation of champlevé whereby engraved lines forming a design are incised into the metal and are filled with opaque enamel– usually black. This technique was often used in decorating mourning jewelry.
This early Victorian brooch is made of 10 karat yellow gold, and it is a beautiful example of the elaborate decorative fashion indicative of the era. Beginning at the top, we see a structured archway, which has floral motifs and torpedo shaped danglers at the base. In the middle of the arch is a segmented domed shape, which has the taille d'épargne enameling in deep black, with somewhat Asian influence in the designs. Attached to that is a flat golden ring with etched designs, three more torpedo danglers, and a golden bead hanging from the center. The reverse also has a hook, from which more pieces could be hung, if you had the notion. A wonderful piece, the perfect brooch for anyone who loves the Victorian Era and the ornate. Brooches are enjoying a huge comeback today, as evidenced by the stunning looks on the Red Carpet. No longer considered an accessory for women, many fashion forward men are sporting the look!
Circa 1860s
Details (approximate)
Dimensions: 55mm x 32mm
Weight: 8.5 grams
Materials: 10K yellow gold & Taille d'Epargne enamel
Marks: 10K
Condition: Excellent antique condition
LORL, LOE